Make Your Own Fertilizer
Tablet fertilizers provide a localized supply of nutrients. They are concentrated forms of nutrient-rich substrate additives and particularly high in iron. Some faster-growing plants use vast amounts of iron, and supplying a concentrated source at the roots will help to prevent iron deficiency problems. Deficiencies in other plants, which may not be able to compete for available iron as quickly, will also be reduced or prevented. Do not use tablets as a whole-aquarium solution to universal fertilization or iron fertilization, but only to provide an additional source of nutrients for individual plants. Tablets are not required, even locally, when soil-based substrates are used.
Several off-the-shelf liquid fertilizers are available for aquatic plants, but they should be used with caution because over-fertilization can cause problems with algae and metal toxicity. Generally speaking, you get what you pay for when you buy liquid fertilizers some of the more specialized products are far more valuable and contain the correct quantities of the required nutrients without oversupplying or lacking some elements. Liquid fertilizers can be particularly useful in supplying chelated iron to the aquarium. Although iron is a micro-nutrient and needed only in small quantities, it is often unavailable in the aquarium unless it is provided in a chelated form that will slowly release a usable form of iron over long periods. Many of the nutrients in liquid fertilizers will become unusable after a short period, usually through binding with other elements or through oxidation. For this reason it is important to dose the aquarium on a regular basis, normally weekly or every two...
Because C02 is a gas, it is not possible to introduce it into the aquarium through conventional means, such as by way of liquid or substrate fertilizers. Various devices designed to introduce C02 into the aquarium are available for hobbyists and these include those using tablets that slowly release C02, slow-release chemical reactors, and pressurized C02 cylinders that can be adjusted and set by timers. All these systems introduce C02 gas directly into the aquarium water. The aim is to keep the gas in contact with the water long enough for it to be available for plants to absorb. Magnesium is a vital macronutrient for all plants with a part to play in numerous important functions, and an important ingredient in chlorophyll. Magnesium is also used to activate enzymes that form vital fats, oils, and starch. Magnesium is a hardwater nutrient and often found in levels proportionate to calcium levels. However, levels of magnesium in tap water vary a great deal depending on local...
Sometimes, the amounts are so excessive as to be loxic to the aquarium plants or to ause 'algal blooms' (see page 47). Nitrates also build up naturally in an aquarium stocked with fishes as bacteria break down their waste products (see page 19). For an aquarium filled with mains water, therefore, an all-round plant ertilizer is not really necessary since many of the nutrients are present in sufficient or over-abundant concentrations already. A fertilizer is equired simply to 'fill the gaps' left in the composition of the mains water. As regular water changes are necessary to counteract the gradual build-up of inorganic wastes in the quarium, it is usually the levels of ace elements that must be made good at these times. Where rainwater used, an all-round 'physiologically ilanced' fertilizer is necessary. I rtilizers suitable for both instances ire widely available in liquid and tablet rm from aquarium dealers. Below To help new plants establish nd grow away strongly,...
By contrast, lack of manganese leaves the tissue yellow but the veins are a dark-green colour. Strangely enough there may be adequate manganese in the system but it is inhibited by an oversupply of iron. This situation often occurs when iron-only fertilizers are used. A combination of trace elements in the correct combination will solve the problem. Incidentally, an oversupply of iron will also inhibit the action of other elements, particularly phosphate. The iron is in fact reacting chemically with these elements to form insoluble compounds such as iron phosphate. It is for this reason that basic fertilizers, i.e. nitrate, phosphorus and potassium, should only be administered during water changes and trace-element solutions administered on a daily basis.
As a rule, there will be sufficient magnesium and calcium in tap water, except in areas with very soft water. The other nutrients (potassium, sulphur, iron, manganese, copper, zinc, boron and molybdenum) must be added in the form of aquatic plant fertilizer such as Tropica AquaCare. Remember that every new aquarium needs a period of one or two weeks to settle down. During this time there should be no fish in the aquarium, except for types that eat algae, which can be introduced after the first week. Tropica AquaCare takes full account of the needs of fish and plants, ensuring a healthy balance in aquarium water which resembles the natural balance itself. All the same, plant food should only be given where necessary. As a rule of thumb, if the new leaves on the plants are dark in colour, then they do not need much fertiliser, while if they are pale, it is a good idea to give them a little more. It is also necessary to take into account that in soft water the plants only need half as...
The stem and leaves of this plant vary between brown and red, depending on various aquarium conditions. The color is highly unusual among common aquarium plants, making this plant a popular choice in planted displays. The fine, feathery leaves require clean, well-filtered water any debris and or algae will clog them and stop them photosynthesizing. Strong lighting is essential for this plant. Do not plant individual stems too close together, otherwise light may not reach the lower leaves. The plant will spread across the surface and produce side shoots. Iron-rich fertilizers will improve growth. A very similar plant, Myriophyllum mattogrossense, is often available.
It is important to keep this common aquarium plant In water free of visible debris, which may clog the fine leaves. Providing you regularly add a multipurpose fertilizer to the tank, the plant should do well in most aquariums. It will produce side shoots, but overcutting will damage it. In strong light, the plant may produce thick leaves above the surface. Milfoil does well in softer water and will grow without any adverse affects in water with a pH value as low as 5, although it will also do well in water with a pH of about 7.5.
Nearly all Echinodorus sp. require a good source of iron. Without it, the leaves become thin and lacking in color, eventually breaking down and dying off. Iron can be added by regularly dosing plants with liquid fertilizers, although a good-quality, nutrient-rich or clay-based substrate additive will provide a long-term solution to iron fertilization.
If the lower part of a stemmed plant loses its leaves, this means that light is having difficulty in penetrating right to the bottom of the aquarium. In this case, cut the plant a few centimeters from the bed and transplant the healthy upper part. If you have small rearing tanks, these can be used as aquatic greenhouses for the cultivation of stemmed plants. It is best to use fertilizer, in the form of liquids or clay balls. Some fish need to be added to ensure the supply of C02 to the plants. Aeration is not strictly necessary, and filtration should be moderate.
The deep red color of this delicate, oval-leaved plant contrasts well with lighter green species, but bear in mind that the stunning leaf color is dependent on strong lighting and iron-rich fertilizer. Transport and plant it carefully, as the stems are sensitive and easily
Aquarium shops sell various types of siphons for removing water from the tank. Purchase one with a long enough hose to reach from the bottom of the tank, over the top edge, and down to the floor. You will also need a couple of plastic five-gallon buckets. Use them only for aquarium maintenance. Don't mix garden fertilizer or paint in a bucket and then later carry water in it. You may inadvertently poison the aquarium.
Establishing a good regime for introducing nutrients into the aquarium is vital for the continued health and growth of plants. The type and quantity of fertilization depends to a great extent on the dynamics of the individual aquarium. An aquarium with nutrient-rich or soil-based substrates may need only regular water changes with tap water and carbon dioxide fertilization to maintain sufficient nutrient levels. On the other hand, an aquarium with an inert substrate and few additional substrate fertilizers will need regular dosing with a liquid fertilizer, in conjunction with carbon dioxide fertilization. If an aquarium is deficient in only a few nutrients, such as iron and potassium, it may be necessary to add specific fertilizers regularly. Whatever the circumstances, it is important that any fertilizer regimes are maintained on a consistent basis to ensure good plant health in the display aquarium.
Right Place fertilizer tablets under or close to the roots of individual plants. This new addition to the tank will soon be able to absorb the nutrients. Right Place fertilizer tablets under or close to the roots of individual plants. This new addition to the tank will soon be able to absorb the nutrients.
These plants should do well in most aquariums. Fertilizer is not vital and most water conditions, including harder water, are suitable for them. Fluorescent lighting will be adequate. To ensure good health, use C02. These plants will do well in most conditions, but some species may need brighter lighting. Provide C02 and fertilizer. Propagation should be easy. Soft water is best, but if adequate C02 is used, the plants should do well in harder water. These plants must have strong lighting (use alternatives to fluorescent tubes, such as metal-halide and mercury vapor lamps). Provide a good-quality, iron-rich substrate, regular fertilizer, and C02 for best results.
C02 systems would be ineffective in this type of aquarium, as the increased air water exchange would remove much of the C02 as soon as It was introduced. Instead, use liquid fertilizers to replace any substrate fertilization. Water quality is relatively unimportant to both fish and plants in this biotope. Recreating this type of environment in the aquarium results In a poor environment for most aquatic plants, but providing you choose the correct group of plants, you can be successful and achieve dramatic results.
In ponds, UV (ultraviolet) clarifiers are used as part of the filtration system to kill single-celled algae. Although UV light units are available for aquariums, they are not recommended for planted systems because the process can break down some nutrients. The best course of action is to reduce or block any natural sunlight reaching the aquarium and try to reduce the amount of dissolved organic matter. A reduction in the amount of fish feeding and liquid fertilizer dosing, combined with a siphoning or gravel cleaning of the uppermost layer of substrate, should achieve a significant reduction in dissolved organics. If no improvement is seen within a week, a chemical solution may be required.
Plants need light, mineral salts (fertilizer), and carbon dioxide (CO2) to grow, and their survival and reproduction depends on the right proportions of these elements. A fishkeeper also needs to be an aquatic gardener and have green fingers to cultivate his or her live decor. Fertilizers - add liquid fertilizers specially designed for aquatic plants - add solid fertilizers, in the form of sustained-release mineral salt capsules placed at the base of the plants. You can also make a solid fertilizer at home, based on clay. Knead it, form small balls, then have them soak up liquid fertilizer. Placed at the base of plants, these balls gradually release their nutrients. This name covers all the substances needed for the growth of aquarium plants. They are in fact the equivalent of the fertilizers that are used in agriculture, or for house plants.
Tropica AquaCare is a series of fertilizer products which are developed based on 35 years experience within the production and development of plants, and from the experience of the most skilled aquarists. The products are scientifically developed to produce healthy and fertile waterplants, throughout the plant's lifetime. Both PLANT SUBSTRATE and PLANT NUTRITION+ capsules are products which supply waterplants with nutrition via their roots. The risk of the release of nutrients to the water and algae growth is therefore minimal. Liquid fertilizers should be used with great care. We therefore recommend that PLANT NUTRITION+ liquid is only used in aquariums where there are many plants and relatively few fish. PLANT NUTRITION liquid is suitable for aquariums with many fish.
The spade-shaped 3.2-4.7 in (8-12 cm) leaves and longer stalks give this anubias a much tidier appearance than smaller anubias, which may grow in seemingly random directions, but it is harder to care for than other anubias species. This plant does best when allowed to grow above the water surface and given plenty of nutrients. The substrate should be fairly loose and contain iron-rich fertilizer. In good conditions, this is an attractive and dominant plant that makes an excellent addition to any planted aquarium. For the best effect, give it plenty of room among smaller foreground plants.
These tropical clays are prepared for the aquarium in the form of a fine screened powder. It is mixed with 75 per cent of washed lime-free gravel and the remaining gravel used as a top cover. These products also include a powdered fertilizer mixture containing growth hormones to promote the formation of roots. For those who wish to add these clays to an already established aquarium, the material is also available in the form of cylindrical sun-dried pellets. These the main tank substrate. The rock wool, impregnated with a suitable fertilizer, acts as an inert support for the roots as they absorb essential nutrients. For aquarium use, wrap the roots in rock wool and insert each plant into a pot before setting it into the substrate. Small pots of 4cm (1.6in) diameter are ideal. Below Various grades of aquarium gravel plus two colours of baked clay, fertilizer-impregnated substrates. The two finer grades of gravel are usually the most suitable to support good growth in aquarium plants.
When you come to select suitable nutrient mixes, bear in mind that some fertilizers include other micronutrients that are not essential for aquatic plants and need not be added to the aquarium. Some terrestrial plants may require these nutrients for functions that are not present in aquatic plants, such as nitrogen fixation (obtaining nitrogen from the atmosphere). These nutrients include sodium, silicon, iodine, and cobalt. Aquatic plants do not need these nutrients. Chelated nutrients are normally present only in large numbers in the water when an artificial chelate or liquid fertilizer is added. These nutrients are small enough to be taken in by plant leaves above the substrate. However, some may quickly bond with other elements, making larger molecules that are unavailable to plants. They may also need to be supplied in quantity in the substrate or additionally through liquid fertilizers. The major difference between liquid and substrate fertilization is that liquid fertilizers...
To rear adult brine shrimp, a large shallow container, such as a child's wading pool, is filled with old aquarium sea-water and allowed to sit in a brightly lit area until the water turns green, indicating a thriving population of microalgae. To speed up the process, add a pinch of house-plant fertilizer to supply nitrate and phosphate for the algae. Nauplii are then added. They will feed on the algae and grow to adult size (about Vi inch) in about three weeks. AMPHIPODS. Amphipods are the tiny, transparent, shrimplike creatures that are sometimes seen scuttling around on the rocks in the aquarium, feeding on detritus. They are about V4 inch in length. To culture them as food for the aquarium, set up a tank with a heater and a large, box-type power filter or a canister filter. Fill the filter compartment with a large sponge block or polyester filter pads. Pack in as much of this material as possible without restricting
Growth rates Plants can be described as fast- or slow-growing, but a more important consideration is the time they take to become established. Fast-growing plants, such as Cabomba, Ambulia, or Egeria, will establish and grow quickly. They soon begin to use nutrients in large amounts, which may cause problems for other plants that need a settling in period before they start to grow. The faster-growing plants may use up nutrients in the water before the slower-growing ones have become established, making it even more difficult for them to get started. You should therefore introduce the slow-establishing plants (including many foreground and harder-to-keep species) before fast-growing and fast-establishing species, or give them additional help in the form of substrate fertilizer tablets.
PLANT NUTRITION liquid Is added each week when changing the water. A flask is used to ensure an accurate dosage. The fertilizer is forced up into the fertilzer chamber by a single press on the flask. We recommend 5 mL per 50 L water per week, but recommend that the is set in accordance with plant requirements. For example, light leaves often indicate lack of nutrition, but can also be due to poor growth. Echinodorus bleheri is a typical example of lack of micro-nutrients. Regular dosing with PLANT NUTRITION liquid can restore green and luxuriant leaves. Note, however, that PLANT NUTRITION liquid is a fertilizer and not a medicine for dying plants. It is recommended that minimum 25 of the aquarium water is changed eveiy second week. If undesirable algae growth does occur, then we recommend increasing water change frequency (up to 50 ) and planting additional rapid growth waterplants such as Hygrophila, Vallisneria and Egeria.
You will always be able to see and read the latest news from Tropica on our front page and then click straight to the full article. The articles are about our latest plants as well as those we have been producing for some time where new knowledge about them justifies an article. In addition, there are articles about our fertilizers and about Tropica in general.